Monza – More than a Formula 1 Racing Track
Monza is mainly known abroad for its Formula 1 racing track, but hosts a few other artistic and historical gems as well, apart from being a pleasant city to visit on its own. There is the historical city and there is the park of which the Autodrome is part. Both are equally large, with Monza lying at the base of the park.
The treasury of queen Teodolinda
In Monza you need to visit the Gothic Duomo or Basilica of San Giovanni Battista, that was originally commisioned in the 7th century by the Lombard Queen of Italy, Teodolinda, but rebuilt in the 14th . The major attraction in the church still is connected to the queen though, the Teodolina treasury , which counts as one of the most important treasuries in artistic-historical value in the world. It has now been organised as a museum ( Museo Serpero , Tues-Sun, 8€) with 9 rooms. The major objects of art (among many others) are the golden votive crown of the queen, an ivory diptich of 500 and a marvelous piece of Longobard smithswork, a golden hen and seven chickens, representing Lombardy and her seven provinces. In the church itself look for the evangelicatorio or choir by Campione and Teodolinda ‘s chapel with the Iron Crown of Lombardy. Definitely worth the trip!
Villa Reale and the park
After visiting the Duomo , head for the park to relax and admire the Villa Reale and its gardens. This 18th century palace complex is being restored but still open for the public.You may visit the Royal Chapel, the Rotonda orangerie, the Royal apartments and the Royal Theatre.
( In 2011 the Lega Nord party opened a few (fake) ministeries in the Villa, to protest agains the Roman (southern) dominance as the capital of legislature. These see’s were subsequently declared illegal and closed by the Monti government in 2012 .) Finally then there is the park with the Autodrome racing circuit , that is open for public at a fee of 5€ on days without events, from 8-6:30 (lunch break 1-2:30). A calendar of events is available at the Autodrome website. The F1 race usually takes place in september.
Not far from the park (east) lies the village of Arcore , where the bunga bunga feasts of former pm Berlusconi are said to have taken place (some people call it (H)Ar(d)core for this reason).
Transport
The easiest way to get to Monza from Milan by public transport is to take the regional train from Porta Garibaldi railway station (15 minutes) .
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The blind brother’s little room is, in all its simplicity, probably even more touching than the beautiful small adjacent church with its 15th century frescoes. Frate Ave Maria as the monk was known, blind due to a shooting accident at the age of 12, lived there for four decades (till his death in 1964), ascetic, pious and content, praying and receiving pilgrims in search of comfort and advice. Even Pier Paolo Pasolini made his way up through the woods to the isolated monastery of Sant’Alberto di Butrio, in search of resolution for his everlasting struggle with religion, as a few lines of poetry from his hand testify.
After centuries of decay Don Orione housed his order of the Divine Providence here in the early 20th century and he also brought Frate Ave Maria here, after having consoled him as a boy with his tragic fate and having directed him to the life of faith. The simple bed of the blind brother is now covered with little notes of visitors, seeking help, strength and health for friends or family members.
A bit further out of city center, in a straight line north-west from the 
This abbey was founded (12th century) by St Bernard of Clairvaux as part of a chain of Carthusian abbeys all over Europe. Culture and spirituality can be sensed here , where you tread on truly historical ground . The abbey is located a few km outside of Milan, in the hamlet properly named after its founder, Chiaravalle . Worth seeing are the tower, in fired brick and Candoglia marble; the roman central door with wings sculptured in relief; the cloisters , with columns and capitals that portray men and animals; the 14th century paintings; the 16th/17th century frescoes by Luini and others and the 17th century portico. There are also engravings at the entrance to the chapter, east of the cloister, attributed to Bramante , that display a view of Milan as it was at the time: the Filarete tower of the castle, the Duomo without the statues, the Santa Maria delle Grazie (of the Last Supper) still under construction. The nickname of the tower, ciribiciaccola in Milanese dialect was used in a famous tongue-twister nursery rhyme:
This abbey is one of the best preserved examples of a medieval farmhouse courtyard . Originally it was inhabited by the Umiliati order, that consisted of priests and laymen. They worked in the field and dedicated themselves to the production of wool. The buildings were surrounded by a ditch and defended by a tower originally fitted with a draw-bridge. Two entrances , one from the city, the other one from the fields, led into the courtyard surrounded by stables, houses and workshops. Alongside the courtyard there is the cloister , with refectory, kitchens, capitular room and sacristy, and porticoes on four sides on the ground floor, on two sides on the first floor . There is also a loggia which acted as a dormitory and granary. The 14/15th century church is dedicated to St. Mary. The frescoes in the apse have been attributed to the Lombard Renaissance school, and they depict the Four Evangelists, the Assumption of the Virgin, and a portrait of the prior who commissioned the work.
If you’re in for a little trip to the Milanese countryside , then the Viboldone Abbey would be a nice suggestion. After taking the train, bus or metro you’ll still have to walk for about a km before reaching the abbey. The abbey was founded by the Umiliati order in the 12th century and the building was only finished in the 14th. Of the original monastery itself hardly anything remains. The one reason to make the trip worthwhile is the presence of many splendid 14th century frescoes clearly influenced by Giotto . Don’t forget to look for the wooden crucifix.
This 15th century church, commissioned by Bianca Maria Visconti to celebrate her wedding with Francesco Sforza , is the only major sight of Cremona that is located rather far out of the city center (2 km south east, on the road towards the hospital). The first stone that was laid for the church can still be seen behind the main altar, with the text: ” Here Francesco Sforza, Duke of Milan, joined in marriage Biancamaria daughter of Filippo Visconti … in the year 1447 “. The marriage also signified the union between the two rival families. The church is especially worth visiting for its rich collection of Renaissance paintings and frescoes by Boccaccino (Eternal Glory of Christ, Resurrection of Lazarus, Christ and the adulteress) and several members of the Campi family: Madonna with Child, Saints Daria, Sigismondo, Girolamo and Crisante with Francesco Sforza and Bianca Maria Visconti , Pentecost, Saints Cecilia and Catherine, Beheading of John the Baptist and Glory of Paradise are some of the works to be admired. Also look for the organ , which in part is the Renaissance original with artwork of Campi and Pesenti . The feast after the wedding of Francesco and Bianca Maria lasted for days and included a banquet at which a large type of cake in the form of the Torrazzo tower was presented, probably the first torrone of Cremona. The feast is re-enacted each year at the Torrone Festival in November.
The small historical town of Vigevano, at a short distance south-west of Milan, has one of the most beautiful Renaissance squares of Italy. No wonder that many newly wedded couples come to this place to have their pictures taken. Vigevano’s era of fame lasted for about two centuries, when during the Renaissance period the city was governed by the Visconti and Sforza families respectively. It is the birthplace of Ludovico il Moro. The square is said to have been designed by Bramante by order of the same Ludovico il Moro (a Sforza ), as a kind of vestibule for the adjacent castle. Actually the piazza is not a square but a rectangle of balanced proportions, enclosed by decorated portico buildings on three sides and a Baroque style cathedral (of later date) on the fourth. From the piazza one enters the castle complex via stairs underneath the Bramante tower , as the castle lies at a higher elevation than the square. Originally there was a large ramp leading into the center of the square, to allow carriages to access the castle. This removed in the 17th century when the cathedral was built. All the decorations on the facades of the buildings are early 20th century reconstructions based on the traces of the original ones that were left. Note the beautiful motifs in the cobble stone pavement. The statue at the far end of the square represents St Matthew.
Vigevano has its own 
This early 17th century Duomo was built on the premises of a 14th century Basilica dedicated to St Ambrose, as ordered by Francesco Sforza . The Baroque facade was constructed in the 17th century. The campanile tower is the result of several stages of building, the last one as late as 1818. Albeit of a different style than the rest of the piazza , the cathedral still presents a pleasant closure of the eastern part, probably also due to the particular curvature of the facade that seems to “embrace” the square. Inside you’ll find: the polyptych Biffignandi (Madonna with Child); a 15th century work by Ferrari (2nd chapel left); the 16th century altar (2nd chapel left); the triptych Gusberti (baptism of St Augustine) and St Thomas of Canterbury also by Ferrari (St Charles chapel right); an 18th century organ (presbytery); a 16th century funeral monument for bishop Pietra (entrance of the right sacristy). Of particular interest is the treasury , partly based on possessions of Francesco II Sforza, that has on display: valuable corals, missals, codices and manuscripts, a bishops crook, called La Pace , in narwhal ivory, a gold-plated silver reliquary, Flemish tapestries and standards, a pure gold embroidered vestment worn by Napoleon at his coronation. The treasury museum is open on Saturday from 3-6:30 and Sunday from 9:30-12:30 & 3-6:30 or on request. A photo gallery is available at the website of the diocese.
Though frequently called the Tuscany of the North of Italy, the Oltrepò Pavese in Lombardy, only 40 miles south of Milan, is fairly unknown abroad. Tourists pass the area closely when travelling to the real Tuscany, to Umbria or further south. This is a pity as the Oltrepò really offers something worthwhile for almost every tourist, especially food and wine lovers. The area offers smooth hills, medieval villages and castles, panoramic views, authentic Italian food and local wines. The Oltrepò happens to be the largest wine producing area of Lombardy and one of the largest in Italy. It specialises in the pinot nero grape (pinot noir) that is very suited for the spumante: bubbling champagne-like wines. The landscape is scattered with vineyards that are freely accessible for hikers or even mountain biking.
The Oltrepò Pavese is part of the province of Pavia, in the southern part of Lombardy. Oltrepò literally means “on the other side of the Po”. The Po river runs through the large plain in the North of Italy, the pianura padana, where the risotto rice is produced. In the south of Pavia province the terrain quickly gains height. The Oltrepò Pavese, not to be confused with the Oltrepò Mantovano, is situated at the foothills of the Ligurian Alps and Apennines. As an inhabitant of the region I can offer you a list of 7 of the most important reasons to come and visit!
The Oltrepò Pavese offers peace and quiet, tranquillity, and the silence (while strolling in the vineyards for example) is often overwhelming. Life still has a slow pace here, as the locals are living the life in more or less the same way their ancestors did. They grow wine as a labour that follows the seasons, year after year, generation after generation. Most of the wine farmer families have been living here since the Middle Ages. Hardly any tourist business has developed here. This means that as the one of the few visitors from abroad you are still encountered with hospitality everywhere. Guests that arrive at our 
Whether touring with your car, cycling with your bike or just walking/hiking through the vineyards: you will enjoy fantastic views from almost every point. Smooth rolling hills, vineyards as far as the eye can see (always green as the vines lose their foliage only in winter), castles and medieval villages on hilltops. Just about everything you tend to expect when thinking of the Italian landscape is within your view. Small hamlets are almost everywhere so you do not feel lost in a desolate world. On a clear day you’ll have a spectacular view of the Alps – 100 miles further north.
People are enthusiastic to serve you their local traditional food and wine at all of the little family restaurants that populate the area. The food that is served is the food that Italians want to eat, it has to have “mamma” quality! And prices are ridiculously low. Regional dishes are simple but very effective. Using seasonal ingredients like mushrooms and tartufi and the local meats of rabbit, wild boar and the likes, delicious dishes are prepared. One thing not to be missed is the typical Sunday pranzo or lunch. There all of the servings of the Italian menu (antipasti, primi, secondi, contorni, dolci) pass by, sometimes even twice. The Varzi salame is a protected product, like the Parmesan cheese. If you decide to visit and stay, you may even participate in a cooking class with our own favourite mamma, Leda. Putting your hands in the dough, as the Italians say: mettere le mani in pasta.
As mentioned above, the Oltrepò Pavese is one of the largest wine regions of Italy, much larger than the far better known Franciacorta region. It is in fact the wine producing area of Milan. Unfortunately (or not?) the wine farmers here have never been good at marketing their product outside the Milan area, let alone internationally. This may gradually change though, as the last decade a lot of young, new wine farmers have decided to concentrate on higher quality instead of quantity. In 2015 the spumante bubbling wine of the Tenuta Mazzolino wine house was chosen to be the best of the whole of Italy. Also particular of the area are the normal sparkling wines, the vivace, frizzante wines. Reds and whites sparkle without being just sweet. The most famous local wine, the Bonarda is fruity but not sweet, in contrast to the Lambrusco, for example. Only last year the first bonarda wine ever has received the maximum award of three bicchieri of the Gambero Rosso gastronomy organisation (the Italian Michelin). A local, more classical wine is the Buttafuoco, the production of which is restricted to a small area in the North of the Oltrepò. A typical sweet red wine of the area is the Sangue di Giuda. The regional champagne-like spumante has made it to the Italian DOCG category. Wine tasting is possible at almost every one of the hundreds of cantina’s and is always informal and … free! No fussing around here: just tasting and enjoying. See my 
The small but charming abbey of Sant’Alberto di Butrio in Val di Nizza is one of the must-sees of the region. The 11th century hermitage is situated on a hill amidst the woods of the western border of the Oltrepò but can be easily reached. Once you get out of your car you will be overwhelmed by silence, again. The isolated position of the monastery, that consists of three interconnected churches, makes it ideal for getting into a meditative mood. Inside you will see a number of beautiful medieval (15th century) fresco’s and the moving simple room of the blind brother Frate Ave Maria (yes that was really his name). On his bed you’ll see small pieces of paper with requests of visitors of the abbey to the brother to pray for the health of loved ones.
One of the most enjoyable and relaxing activities during a visit to the Oltrepò is without a doubt making a hike. Because there are no fences you can freely walk through the vineyards. No traffic, only magnificent views: a pure pleasure! Sign-posted hikes are fairly unknown here, but it is quite easy to find your way and you can cross the vineyards anyway you want. If you meet the owner or one of the workers on your way, no problem. They are always friendly and curious to know why you are walking there as Italians are no real hikers. If you plan ahead you may arrange for a lunch stop at one of the small hamlets that are scattered on the hills or in one of the larger villages like Santa Maria della Versa.
For a day out in the city, Pavia is the first choice, as it is the capital of the province. Once, in early medieval times, Pavia was even the capital of Italy, under the Lombard rule. Pavia is a charming, and historic city with a good mixture of sights (don’t miss the old university buildings!) and shops. Of course there are plenty of restaurants and bars, for instance in its central square, Piazza Vittoria with its many terraces.
This is a beautiful Renaissance church , next to a monastery and situated along the Corso Magenta , the street that leads up to the Santa Maria delle Grazie (
The church of San Marco is located in the Brera district , and as the mother house of the order of St Augustine it contains artworks related to Augustinian subjects: a fresco by the Fiammenghinis depicting Alexander IV Instituting the Order of the Augustinians; 16th-century frescoes by Lomazzo that narrate the stories of Saint Peter and Saint Paul; the peculiar nativity scene made of paper; the sarcophagus of the blessed Lanfranco Settala , including the statue of the deceased surrounded by angels and saints; underneath the Settala tomb precious frescoes were found among which a crucifixion attributed to a 14th-century Lombard master; the Martino Aliprandi sarcophagus with its dual representation of God’s sacred divinity in the Heavens and incarnation on Earth; a monochrome Madonna of the Leonardo school; an Antegnati organ dating back to the 16th century is particularly noteworthy. Definitely worth the detour!
Close to the 
Like the Sant’Antonio Abate , the Sant’Alessandro is situated not far from the Duomo , to the south-west in this case. And also like in the Sant’Antonio , you’ll find a treasury of 17/18th century Lombard baroque art here. An overview of some major works : an Assumption; a Nativity and a Crucifixion by Procaccini; a Flagellation by Crespi; the confessionals, of engraved wood/marble inlaid with precious stones; the pulpit, decorated with gemstones; the vaulted dome frescoed by Abbiati; the main altar with gems bound with gold-plated bronze . The hypothesis is that the praetorium was called “ di Zebedia ” after a commanding judge of the time. The old square where the church stands is one of the very few spaces in Milan that have remained untainted by post-war reconstruction. At the opposite end of the square is the Palazzo Trivulzio , worth a quick look. Not accessible for the disabled.
Monza is mainly known abroad for its Formula 1 racing track, but hosts a few other artistic and historical gems as well, apart from being a pleasant city to visit on its own. There is the historical city and there is the park of which the Autodrome is part. The major attraction in the church is the Teodolina treasury , which counts as one of the most important treasuries in artistic-historical value in the world. See 
Pavia , at a short distance south of Milan, happens to be one of the nicest cities in the region for a nice stroll. All of Pavia can be visited on foot and along the way there are lots of quiet little squares with benches in the shadow of trees. Pavia is quiet during the lunch hour(s), but becomes lively at 
The most popular place to go to in Pavia to have a drink, an aperitivo , sit outside and view the citizens pass by is the Piazza Vittoria, or Piazza Grande as it is informally known. The square in reality consists of two rectangular spaces left and right of the Corso Cavour . On both parts you’ll find several bars, cafés and restaurants with outside terraces. Along the sides of the 14th century piazza stand several historical buildings , such as the medieval Broletto (municipal administrative see). The Piazza Vittoria is also the place where city events such as open air concerts take place.
This important church, one of the major sights of Pavia, is situated a little peripheral of city center, at its own quiet square. The name, St Peter in the Golden Sky (not a Beatles’ song) refers to the former gilded wooden ceiling with which it was decorated. The first church on this location dates back from as early as the 7th century and is connected to the Lombard king Liutprand . The current Romanesque building is of the 12th century. The importance of the San Pietro not only relates to its age and history, but also to the fact that the remains of two of the most influential philosophers of late antiquity (are said to) rest here, as well as those of Liutprand himself. The remains of St Augustine are in the magnificent 14th century sarcophagus on the altar and those of Boethius are in the crypt. For the story of the vicissitudes of the remains of Augustine, see the Augnet website. St Augustine is the well-known founder of Catholic philosophy and writer of the ‘ Confessions ‘ and ‘ The City of God ‘. Boethius is less commonly known, but was the most read classic philosopher in the Middle Ages, with his work Consolatio Philosophiae (Consolation of Philosophy), still worth reading, if only for the magnificent style. He also made sure that the Greek classics were still accessible in the Middle Ages, when no one knew Greek anymore, as he translated a large part into Latin. The importance of the San Pietro is also testified by the fact that it is mentioned in the works of Dante ( Divina Commedia , see the plaque on the facade, text referring to Boethius: The body whence it was chased forth, lies down below in Cieldauro and itself from martyrdom and exile came unto this peace ), Boccaccio ( Decameron ) and Petrarch. All popes visit the San Pietro at least once during their papacy, as did Benedict XVI in 2007.
This 12th century church in Lombard-Romanesque style is a truly historical spot, as it was here that several Kings of Italy were crowned , among who the famous Frederic Barbarossa (1155), but also Berengarius I (888), Louis III (900), Henry the Saint (1004) and many others. The architecture of the San Michele has formed a kind of prototype for other churches in Pavia, as for the San Pietro in Ciel d’Oro for example, but unfortunately the facade of the San Michele is in sandstone instead of brick. As a consequence, the decorations have deteriorated a lot over time. One of the better preserved reliefs shows St Michael killing the dragon of the Apocalypse. Inside you have to look for the mosaic (fragment) in the presbytery that displays mythological themes (labyrinth) and the themes of the months and the altar. In the nave and the crypt there are some extraordinary capitals , decorated with scenes of the Old Testament: Adam and Eve, Cain and Abel, Samson and the Lion etc. In the chapel to the right of the altar you’ll find a 10th century silver crucifix .
This castle, built for Galeazzo II Visconti in the 14th century, seems to have been even more splendid in its time, as Petrarca (friend of the Visconti ‘s) seems to have said that it was the noblest of buildings, modern ones that is. No humanist could of course underrate the classic monuments. The castle has a square plan, with towers at the corners and a large courtyard with portico inside. Note the beautiful Venetian style windows from the outside (and enjoy the nice park around the castello ). Petrarca actually worked in the castle, in the so called Torre della Biblioteca (left) as he was asked to catalogue the valuable manuscript collection. Unfortunately these were all lost during the sack of Pavia in 1527, when also the entire northern part of the castle was destroyed. The tower to the right is called the Torre delle Reliquie , as the precious relics of several saints (gifts from guests) were kept there. Ludovico il Moro had Leonardo da Vinci decorate the salons (blue skies with golden stars) of the current Museo del Risorgimento .
The Università degli Studi di Pavia is one of the oldest of its kind in Europe, as it is first mentioned in an Frankish edict of 825 (!). It became a true university ( studium generale ) in 1361. Some famous scientists worked here: mathematician Girolamo Cardano and physicist Alessandro Volta for example. The university complex , along the Strada Nuova , is a maze of courtyards in which it is easy to get lost. In one of the courtyards (but where?) is a lively bar/café with terrace . A visit of the complex is an enjoyable experience as each courtyard is different, there are a lot of monuments to admire and there are shadowy places and benches to relax. Some of the historical lecture halls are architectural monuments, like the Aula Magna (resembles a Greek temple) , Aula Volta, Aula Scarpa and Aula Foscolo (not freely accessible). The university hosts a collection of museums of which the University History Museum is probably one of the most interesting. The complex along the Strada Nuova , as large as it is, is by far not the only building of the university of Pavia. Throughout the city there are many more sees of all the different faculties.
The Ponte Coperto is one of the most characteristic sights of Pavia, but unfortunately you won’t be looking at an ancient monument when you are visiting. The current bridge is a (somewhat adapted) copy of the original 14th century bridge, that was completely destroyed in WWII . The current bridge is no longer in line with the Strada Nuova , as it was decided in the post-war period to build the new one slightly further east. The new bridge is also wider, to allow for a better flow of traffic, and has less but broader arches. In the middle of the bridge is the chapel dedicated to St Nepomuk , patron of the shippers. There is also a plaque citing Albert Einstein, who lived in Pavia as a youngster. On the opposite shore lies the part of Pavia called Borgo Ticino , a part that the river regularly overflows at high tides. You’ll also find a monument to the women that came here to wash their clothes, lavandai , next to the bridge at the Borgo . To the right of the bridge is a nice meadow and park. The Via dei Mille that starts on the opposite shore in the Borgo , is a busy street with quite a few good restaurants.
The city of Cremona lies at only a one hour drive from Milan and definitely is worth a day trip if you are interested in historical locations and … violins. Cremona happens to be the birth place of Stradivarius, the Guarnieri’s and Amati and still is a major violin producing community. You can visit a museum dedicated to the violin and have a look at the city’s violin collection. Apart from that, Cremona also has one of the most beautiful medieval squares of Italy , with the Duomo , Palazzo del Comune , Torrazzo , the Battistero and the Loggia dei Militi . The nice thing about Cremona is that you can easily see the whole of the city on foot, with the only exception of the San Sigismondo abbey. For the sweet tooths it may be nice to know that Cremona is also the home of the torrone , a kind of nougat, which you may buy at Sperlari ‘s.
The magnificent facade of the Cremona cathedral is a sight you’ll not easy forget and the city is worth a visit for this monument of architecture alone. The face of the Duomo is a history book of architectonic styles , from Romanesque to Renaissance as it is the result of a series of reconstructions from the 12th till the 16th century. The lower part of the facade dates from the early period, the upper part ( loggia ) from the Renaissance. Note the sculptures of the prophets, the Madonna with Child and two bishops, the symbols of the Evangelists, the months of the year and the sarcophagi under the portico, especially the one of Folchino Schizzi by Campione . The splendid interior is very richly decorated by the masters of Cremona and Lombardy. Look for the Crucifixion and the Deposition paintings of Pordeone and the fresco decoration on the side walls of the nave (early 16th century), portraying the Life of Mary and Christ, the first of which is by Boccaccino and the others by Bembo, Gatti, Pordeone etc. Worth a closer look are also the richly decorated pulpits, the choir and the crypt with the altar of St Marcellinus and St Peter and the remains of St. Omobono. The cathedral is connected to the Torrazzo via the so-called Bertazzola portico , of the Renaissance period. Take your time to admire this gioiello !
In the Palazzo Affaitati you’ll find the Stradivarius Museum. The museum displays artifacts and tools from the workshop of the maestro, as collected by the 19th century violin scholar Cozio . You’ll see tools, drawings and models for the construction of string instruments as used by Stradivarius himself, but no complete Stradivarius violins . For those you need to go the city’s string instrument collection at the Palazzo del Comune . The museum is organized in three sections :
This shop, again (like the La Pobbia restaurant in Milan), is one of the Locali Storici d’Italia , specialized in the Cremona delicacies torrone (nougat) and mostarda (something different than mustard). Sperlari used to be the supplier to the prince of Piedmont Umberto and the Queen Mother Margaret, so if you decide to buy here you are in good company. Torrone is a type of nougat , hence made of honey, sugar, and egg white, with toasted almonds or other nuts. It got its name probably from the form in which it was first presented, the Torrazzo of Cremona, at the wedding of Bianca Maria Visconti at the San Sigismondo . Mostarda is a condiment made of candied fruit and a mustard flavored syrup, the Cremona variant being made of several kinds of different fruit. It’s rather sharp, beware not to inhale! Except for the torrone (in all sorts and kinds) and mostarda , you may also come here to buy graffioni (chocolate pralines filled with cherry and liquor) or cotognata (quince preserve). For even more products typical of Cremona, see the website of the Fieschi factory from which you can also download a product brochure in English .
The Certosa di Pavia monastery is a definite must-see if you visit Milan or 
The monastery is free to visit (yes, unbelievable!) but you need to be aware that it closes early for lunch (11:30) and opens late again. Don’t be disappointed if it seems that the choir and the rest of the monastery are closed by a gate. Every now and then small groups are let in by a monk. There is also a museum in the foresteria or Palazzo Ducale of the complex (the wing to the right if you face the church facade). It displays artifacts and artwork of the monastery, like work by Campi, Bergognone and Luini . To visit the museum reservation is necessary. Outside the complex is a small bar with shadowy terrace and some souvenirs. Bring your mosquito repellent in summer as this is rice country.
The Certosa represents a real art treasury , inside as well as outside. The facade presents an overwhelming display of decorations, reliefs and statues. It is in white and inlaid marble and is worth an investigation on its own (but bring an umbrella if you don’t want to burn away in the scorching sun). The lower part of the facade displays a series of medallions with portraits of historical Roman and mythological figures. Above it there is a series of scenes about the foundation of the monastery and the life of St Brunone, founder of the Carthusian order. The four magnificent windows left and right of the portal are the work of Amadeo . In the portal you’ll find base reliefs representing the life of Maria and the foundation of the Certosa (first stone). Note Pavia and it’s towers in the background!
In the interior you’ll find frescoes, paintings and sculptures of several of the most important artists of the time the monastery was built. In the nave of the church there are 7 chapels to the left and right with masterpieces of Lombard Renaissance art. Such as:
Behind the gate
After all this you may enter the first, smaller of the two cloisters , for fresh breath of air. But don’t overlook the sculptures by Mantegazza and Amadeo of the portal (medallions representing the dukes). From the cloister one splendid view on the church building. The second cloister is much more spacious with the large green and the small monk cells around it (have a look inside).
The now world famous tourist attraction Cinque Terre along the coast of Liguria is not far from 
Avoid the crowd!
There is, however, a lesser known village that you cannot visit. It is ominously called Porto Vergogna (as this where the whores resided) and it is the sixth village of the Cinque Terre. The one that missed out on all the fame and glory, the ugly little sister. Jess Walter describes it with a lot of humor in his very enjoyable novel Beautiful Ruins. Of course, it does not exist in reality, only in the imagination of the author and the readers of the book. If you go and visit the Cinque Terre, please bring this book along, you are sure to like it.